WIne reviews - Chateau Moulin Pey Labrie from Canon Fronsac

The team at DiscoverVin is very pleased to see 2 new reviews in the Australian media for one of our favorite Bordeaux reds- Chateau Moulin Pey-Labrie 2006.

From the appellation of Canon-Fronsac on the right bank of Bordeaux, adjacent to Pomerol and Saint-Emillon. This is an appellation recently highlighted in an article in Decanter magazine by Oz Clarke. He wrote about how he was "excited" by the quality of wines being produced in Canon-Fronsac and other right bank appellations. 

Chateau Moulin-Pey Labrie is one of the best producers in this appellation. 

Benedicte and Gregoire Hubau made their first vintage in the Bordeaux commune of Fronsac at Chateau Moulin Pey-Labrie in 1988.

Their philosophy is to produce wine that is an expression of the ‘terroir” of their 6.75 hectare vineyard. They work with influential Bordeaux based oenologist Michel Rolland to make wines with finesse, elegance and balance.

So here are the 2 reviews-the first by Kerry Skinner in Quench in the Illawarra Mercury in  July 2012 and the second by John Lewis in the Newcastle Herald August 2012

Go to www.discovervin.com.au for more information or to purchase this wine.

Bordeaux wine & food dinner Adelaide - Universal Table wine club

Wow what a great night! One of those kind of unexpectedly good nights, where beforehand you think, this should be good, but then it turns out to be excellent. Fantastic food, great wines (well to be honest we expected that!) and fabulous company.

DiscoverVin recently travelled to Stamps Restaurant in Adelaide at the invitation of the Universal Table wine club. This is a wine club with about 100 members that was started by Michael Hill Smith, who at the time was the first Master of Wine in Australia. It used to meet regularly at his restaurant - The Universal Wine Bar. It was a privilege to be asked along to the Club. It was potentially a tough crowd for a wine distributor - knowledgeable, experienced and potentially world weary as probably there was not much they hadn't experienced in the past. Possibly that was part of the pleasantly unexpected experience - rather than a  pedestrian night, there was a real buzz about the food and wine. Adjectives like "outstanding", "exquisite", "revelation" punctuated the conversation.








































We had decided to present Bordeaux wines plus a few others and it seemed to hit the mark.

We had 5 courses of fantastic food - seasonal, creative, clearly cooked with care and passion by Brenton. A great front of house team, Matt and Alex led by Anita. 

We started with a taste of Domaine de la Croix Irresistable Rosé , Cru Classé in Provence poured from magnums, while people arrived and chatted - a great start to the evening.

First course of seared scallop with cauliflower panna cotta, roquefort scented cream with the delicious Arlaux Grande Cuvée Champagne (a small family producer making wine from  premier cru vineyards). Amazing to look at and a taste sensation on the palate. The champagne partnered the sweetness and richness of the dish very well.

Second course: An amazing course of Rainbow trout , rolled up with smoked salmon and served with caviar, leek , mussels, potato and red sorrel. Technically impressive and great textures and flavours. Served with Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, Chateau Haut-Peyrous Peche au Carrelet (Graves) 2009 and Chateau Tour des Gendres Moulin des Dames Blanc (Bergerac) 2009. The first made by Marc Darroze and lightly wooded. The second by the acclaimed Luc de Conti and more wood treatment and richness. It created a great debate as to which was the better match - but we were splitting hairs! It was all superb!

Next up was a delicious course of boned roasted rabbit with fennel jam, celeriac puree, sweet and sour quince. Again this was not a simple dish - beautifully cooked and complicated but delicious and integrated flavours. This dish showed of a trio of New Bordeaux from the right bank. The Chateau d'Aiguilhe 2008 (Castillon Cotes de Bordeaux) - on the cover of September edition of Decanter magazine, Chateau Rouget (Pomerol) 2006 and Chateau Dassault (St Émilion) 2006. Three delicious merlot based wines. These wines demonstrated the power and finesse of the wines of the right bank. The D'Aiguilhe in particular drew a lot of attention. This wine epitomises 'New Bordeaux"- ancient vineyards - probably dating back to the time of the Romans, now producing wines using modern techniques and vineyard management to get the most from this fantastic site/terroir. No wonder by this stage the restaurant was buzzing!

Next was a slow cooked beef check with liver and bacon pie, potato and horseradish puree, beetroot and fine herbes. Another delicious dish and a perfect foil to two older cabernet based wines from the left bank. Legende de la Tour Carnet (Haut-Médoc) 2004 and Chateau Lanessan (Haut -Médoc) 2004. Both of these wines are starting to develop some aged flavours and integration of the tannins and fruit. Delicious. The Legende de la Tour Carnet is a good example of a second-label. Tour Carnet is a grand cru producer and puts the grapes from parcels of younger vines (usually less than 15 yo) into the second label. This makes a wine more approachable at a younger age and is very good value for money. The Lanessan is one of our best sellers - it is drinking just beautifully at the moment.

Finally, cheese! We believe this is a club tradition or at least a preference to a sweet dessert. We showed off the spectacular Domaine de l'Ancienne Cure Extase 2003. Incredibly luscious botrytised fruit, great balance and length and not cloying on the finish. As good as many fine sauternes but great value for money at this level of quality. Dessert in a glass and went well with the cheeses.

It was a great night and we hope to be back next year to show off some more wines to the Universal Wine Club in Adelaide. We thoroughly recommend Stamps Restaurant to all our followers.

Saint Émilion Classification System 2012

The vineyards of Saint Émilion on the Bordeaux right bank were first classified in 1955. However one of the key differences to the vineyards in the Médoc on the left bank (which were classified in 1855), is that the St Émilion classification is revised on a regular basis - about every 10 years.

In 2006 a new classification was announced but then suspended after a series of court appeals by four chateaux that had been demoted.

On September 7th 2012 a new classification system was announced. After all of the legal fuss, all but one of the chateaux demoted in 2006 were reinstated. (Chateau de la Tour du Pin Figeac was the exception). The Saint Emilion wine council claimed that it was the result of an improvement in quality in subsequent vintages and has stood by the independence and transparency of the classification system.

Several properties have "disappeared" because their wine production has been absorbed into neighbouring/sister chateaux.

In all there are 82 properties (an increase from the 74 of the last system) - 18 Premiers Grands Crus Classés and 64 Grands Crus Classés. Again the Saint Émilion wine council says this is a result of improved consistency and quality across the appellation.

Over two hundred other Saint-Émilion wines carry the description "Grand Cru", however this designation is awarded under the basic appellation rules and is below the quality level of the 2012 classification. Nevertheless, the basic Grand Cru wines and indeed basic St Émillion, can still offer very good quality and value for money, especially in good years where excellent quality is found across the region. The classification system aims to categorise the very best wines produced in Saint Émilion.

The French government organisation INAO (Institut National des Appelations d'Origines )supervises this and other classification systems for wine and other agricultural products The INAO set up an independent process to try and ensure transparency and avoid accusations of favouritism or conflicts of interest. A jury of experts was set up to judge the wines via a series of tastings - they comprised of seven wine professionals, all members or former members of the INAO and all from outside the Bordeaux region. Chateaux were judged on their terroir, renown, methods of vineyard and cellar work and through a blind tasting of ten vintages (15 for Premier Grand Crus). To become Grand Cru Classé, chateaux had to score at least 14 out of 20, to become Premier Grand Cru Classé, at least 16 out of 20. Within Premier Grand Cru Classé is the sub-designation Premier Grand Cru Classé A and Premier Grand Cru Classé B.

INAO also brought in two independent bodies to ensure the application process and tastings were as rigorous as possible.  The Ministry of Agriculture now has to formal recognise the classification.

There are two new Premiers Grands Crus Classés A estates – with Chateau Pavie and Angelus joining Ausone and Cheval Blanc. One property, Chateau La Valandraut, has been promoted straight to Premier Grand Cru Classé B without passing first to Grand Cru Classé. Chateau Mondotte has also vaulted straight to Premier Grand Cru Classé from its previous classification AOC Saint Emilion. Larcis Ducasse and Canon La Gaffeliere also moved to Premier Cru Classé. The market would probably agree to these moves as the prices of the wines generally are already reflected in the new classification. 17 of the Grand Cru Classé wines were added to that classification. Only 3 were demoted from Grand Cru Classé.

Premiers Grands Crus Classés (A)

Château Angélus 

Château Ausone 

Château Cheval Blanc 

Château Pavie 

Premiers Grands Crus Classés (B)

Château Beauséjour 

Château Beau-Séjour-Bécot

Château Bélair-Monange

Château Canon

Château Canon la Gaffelière

Château Figeac

Clos Fourtet

Château la Gaffelière

Château Larcis Ducasse

La Mondotte

Château Pavie Macquin

Château Troplong Mondot

Château Trottevieille

Château Valandraud

Grands Crus Classés 

Château l’Arrosée

Château Balestard la Tonnelle

Château Barde-Haut

Château Bellefont-Belcier

Château Bellevue

Château Berliquet

Château Cadet-Bon

Château Capdemourlin

Château le Chatelet

Château Chauvin

Château Clos de Sarpe

Château la Clotte

Château la Commanderie

Château Corbin

Château Côte de Baleau

Château la Couspaude

Château Dassault

Château Destieux 

Château la Dominique

Château Faugères

Château Faurie de Souchard

Château de Ferrand

Château Fleur Cardinale

Château La Fleur Morange

Château Fombrauge

Château Fonplégade

Château Fonroque

Château Franc Mayne

Château Grand Corbin

Château Grand Corbin-Despagne

Château Grand Mayne

Château les Grandes Murailles

Château Grand-Pontet

Château Guadet

Château Haut-Sarpe

Clos des Jacobins

Couvent des Jacobins 

Château Jean Faure

Château Laniot

Château Larmande

Château Laroque

Château Laroze

Clos la Madeleine 

Château la Marzelle

Château Monbousquet

Château Moulin du Cadet

Clos de l’Oratoire

Château Pavie Decesse

Château Peby Faugères

Château Petit Faurie de Soutard

Château de Pressac

Château le Prieuré

Château Quinault l’Enclos

Château Ripeau

Château Rochebelle

Château Saint-Georges-Cote-Pavie

Clos Saint-Martin

Château Sansonnet

Château la Serre

Château Soutard

Château Tertre Daugay (Quintus)

Château la Tour Figeac

Château Villemaurine

Château Yon-Figeac

DiscoverVin currently stocks 3 wines from St Émilion from different classification levels...

Chateau Dassault 2006 Grand Cru Classé classification retained in 2012. A wine of great power but finesse. 

Chateau Petit Figeac 2007 Grand Cru- an interesting property formerly part of Figeac and adjacent to Cheval Blanc producing great value wines

Chateau Lagarde 2009 St Émilion- a property renewed after a change of ownership and providing a great entry level St Émilion from a great year

Bordeaux Dinner at Bistro Vue

DiscoverVin hosted a wonderful Bordeaux Wine Dinner in partnership with Bistro Vue in Melbourne on Tuesday 14 August. A selection of our Bordeaux wines were expertly matched to a divine menu prepared by the uber-professional but relaxed and skilled team at Bistro Vue.

Smoked eel and an Oyster. Delightful Amuse Bouche served with Chateau Haut Peyrous Bordeaux Blanc

The first wine: Chateau Haut-Peyrous Peche au Carrelet 2009 was a lovely Semillon Sauvignon Blanc blend from the appellation of Graves. The winemaker is Mark Darroze who purchased this property and modernised it, introducing organic production methods in 2008. The Peche au Carrelet refers to the fishing nets used in the nearby Garonne river to catch local crustaceans fish and eels. So this was an inspired match by chef Chris Bonello and sommelier Maurizio Severgnini to serve this wine with a fresh oyster and some smoked eel.

The Haut-Peyrous was continued and served with the first entrée - crispy prawns, warm lettuce and wild garlic. The body/tail of the prawns were separated from the heads which were also fried and so could be popped into the mouth to savour the intensity of flavour! The Haut-Peyrous was a great foil with enough body and acid to stand up to the slight oiliness of this dish.

Next a look at an older right bank wine: Chateau Lanessan 2004 from the Haut-Medoc. This is a classic blend of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Petit Verdot. It is an interesting producer, held in the same family for seven generations but recently modernising production methods and bringing in young, highly skilled winemaking team to rejuvenate the wines. This one is now drinking beautifully. It still has lots of lovely fruit but the tannins are softening and integrating with the fruit. A classic "claret" style, ready to drink. It matched a delightfully subtle terrine of ox tail - served in thin slices like a carpaccio and served with some cornichons and leaves. Delightful pairing of the older left bank Bordeaux and this dish - a modern twist on a Bistro classic.

We then had a spectacular main course of Flinders Island milk-fed lamb served with beetroot, the leaves of the beetroot and mash. The photos above show a before and after shot of the lamb! The lamb had been cooked sous-vide to maintain its tenderness. Wow! Rich flavours and very tender without  disintegrating into a grey mush. To accompany, 2 younger but very special wines Fleur de Clinet 2008 (Pomerol) and Clés du Pape Clémont 2008 (Pessac-Leognan). Both of these showed the power but restraint of good Bordeaux. They also demonstrated the quality and value for money of the second label wines of these famous producers - Chateau Clinet and Chateau Pape Clémont - usually made from younger vines and designed to be more approachable in their youth. Beautiful fruit, nice tannin and structure but balanced - and approachable now. Another inspired match with the lamb.

Cannelé Cannelé- A deconstructed approach to a Bordeaux classic. Served with Chateau Le Pradey St Croix de Mont, delicious dessert wine.

An then an amazing finale of Cannelé Cannelé - using all the elements of cannele (custard, rum, cinnamon) in a spectacular looking and tasting dessert. Each element had taken considerable time an skill and when reconstructed the whole was a crowd-pleasing triumph. And alongside it Château La Pradey Saint Croix de Mont 2009. This is a blend of Semillon and Sauvignon Blanc, affected by botrytis and lusciously sweet but not cloying on the finish. And then coffee, tea and a cannelé those crisp on the outside, moist and gooey on the inside petits cakes much loved by the Bordelaise. A delightful end to a memorable meal.

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The atmospheric dining room, set up for 30 guests for DiscoverVin's Bordeaux Dinner at Bistro Vue.

The Wines of Bordeaux

Tuesday 14^th August 2012

Amuse bouche

Smoked eel & oyster

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1ère entrée

Crispy prawns, warm lettuce, wild garlic

2009 Château Haut-Peyrous Blanc, Graves

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2ème entrée

Oxtail terrine

2004 Château Lanessan, Haut-Médoc

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Plat principal

Flinders Island milk fed lamb

slow cooked in Claret

2008 Les Clés de Pape Clément, Pessac-Léognan

2008 Fleur de Clinet, Pomerol

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Dessert

Cannelé, Cannelé

2008 Château la Pradey, Sainte-Croix-du-Mont

New Bordeaux Part 2

Hot on the heels of Oz Clarkes Feature article on the New Bordeaux in Decanter magazine September 2012 (and in part reproduced in our blog) comes another article on the good value for money of "New Bordeaux". 

Chateau D'Aiguilhe in Castillon-Cotes de Bordeaux

DiscoverVin wants to bring good values and interesting wines to Australia. We can see that there is almost a mini-revolution occurring in Bordeaux with some great value wines being produced by producers sitting just outside the vineyards included in the 1855 classification system. It seems like the less well known appellations of Bordeaux are starting to get some recognition. These are wine regions held in high esteem since the time of the Romans. Taking grapes from these proven sites/terroir and using modern viticultural and winemaking techniques is leading to a surge in quality and interest amongst discerning wine lovers.

The term "New Bordeaux" is being used to encompass these "new" wine making regions and producers.

Written by John Mariani in Bloomberg Business  on August 6, 2012 and reproduced in the Sydney Morning Herald and entitled Bargain Bordeaux 99 Percenters Can Afford- a reference to the fact that the top classified chateau chased by unprecedented world-wide demand can only be afforded by the top 1% of income earners.

"Despite some softening of prices in the past year, first-growth Bordeaux wines are still at levels only a few can afford.

While the first growths get all the hype and stratospheric prices — a 12-bottle case of 2008 Chateau Lafite-Rothschild recently sold at auction in Hong Kong for $US11,800 — second through fifth growths have shown little in the way of price inflation.

Bargain bin for Bordeaux is found in the estates and appellations that fall into categories as Bordeaux Superieur. Look out for local names such as Fronsac, Cotes de Bourg, Cadillac, Cotes de Castillon and others that make up 95 percent of the region's wines. 

After all, it's what the French drink on a daily basis.

stocked up on Bordeaux from such unheralded appellations and have been drinking them with pleasure, sometimes with real surprise. It hardly needs noting that none rises to the levels of complexity that one finds in first and second growths, but I would be hard put to discern many from an array of third, fourth and fifth growths.

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The vintages went from 2006 to 2010, and all of them were ready to drink right now, although a year or two more on some of the more recent vintages will prove interesting. All were typical Bordeaux blends of cabernet sauvignon, merlot, malbec, and cabernet franc."

Here are some examples of wines from the appellations of Blaye, Fronsac, St Emilion satellites and Castillons that are available from DiscoverVin. Click on the links to read more!


Chateau Fontblanche (Blaye-Cotes de Bordeaux)
Chateau Haut-Larriveau (Fronsac)
Chateau Moulin Pey-Labrie (Canon-Fronsac)
Chateau D'Aiguilhe (Castillons-Cotes de Bordeaux)
Chateau La Fleur Poitou (Lussac St Emilion)
Chateau La Croix Bonneau (Montagne Saint Emilion)